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If you need to be connected to the internet but there’s no Wi-Fi or cellular signal nearby, and not even an Ethernet port in sight, then you have to look up to the skies — to the satellites whooshing 340 miles above your head at dizzying speeds.
I’ve tried a number of systems, from basic messenger units like the Garmin inReach Messenger Plus<!–> and Spot X–> to satellite routers like the Iridium Go!<!–>, and while they have their place, they come with some pretty severe limitations (cost, data transfer speeds, and overall flexibility are high on that list).
Also: Have an old Starlink dish lying around? Update it this week – or it’ll never work again
This is why I’ve been trialing the Starlink Mini–> a portable satellite comms unit that is a dish and Wi-Fi router all built into a small package measuring 11.75 inches by 10.2 inches and 1.45 inches thick. All you need to do is find a clear patch of sky, add power, and you’re surfing the web again (or whatever the kids say these days).
But it’s that “add power” bit that can become a bit tricky when you are miles away from a power outlet.
There are solutions
If you have a vehicle handy, then you can use the car’s 12V system to power the dish<!–> (drawbacks here are that you could run the battery flat, leaving you stranded), or haul a power station around with you.
Also: The best power banks you can buy
If you don’t have a convenient vehicle, your options quickly become more limited. A power station is an obvious choice, but hauling even the smallest one becomes tedious pretty quickly (ask me how I know), and it is overkill if all you want is a few hours of runtime.
This is one of the better Starlink Mini USB-C-to-DC cable.
Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET
My solution is to power the Starlink Mini dish using a power bank and a suitable USB-C to DC cable<!–>. Starlink’s own specifications state that the Mini dish requires a minimum of 100W (20V/5A) power source, but also note that the dish “will not work with USB PD ratings below 65W (12-48V),” implying that a 65W USB-C power bank should be sufficient.
This is where things get a little vague
Thanks to my work, I have a variety of power banks, ranging from large to small, and everything in between. So imagine my surprise when I purchased a suitable cable, grabbed the nearest 100W power bank, and found that my Starlink Mini dish wouldn’t power up. Well, it would power up and then immediately turn off.
The cable has a weatherproof grommet like the original Starlink power cable.
Adrian Kingsley-Hughes/ZDNET
Weird.
Trying more power banks made things a little better. I found that some power banks had no problems powering the dish, while others, for whatever reason (and I’m still investigating this), wouldn’t work despite having the appropriate power rating.
Also: Above the storms: How satellite tech can be a lifesaver during natural disasters
Thinking that my cable might be the problem, I purchased a few more (after all, who doesn’t need half a dozen cables to power a single satellite dish?) and found that the cables make a difference. All the cables I tested were sold as capable of delivering the 100W the dish requires, but some are more effective than others.
Even with the right cable, it can be hit or miss, and that’s because cable length, the thickness of the cable, and the ambient air temperature at which the power bank operates all play a part.
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Keep the cable as short as possible
The longer the cable, the more likely you will encounter problems. So, my advice is to keep the cable as short as possible–>.
Also: The best portable power stations you can buy
I also tried several USB-C wall chargers and had much greater success with them. Every charger I tried that could output 65W or more worked fine. It seemed far less cable-dependent. While this kind of defeats the purpose of replacing the supplied wall charger with a different one, it’s good to know as a backup.
I’ve tested quite a few power banks with the Starlink Mini, and while this shouldn’t be considered a comprehensive list, I found that Anker power banks, like the 737<!–> or Prime 27,650mAh–>, or the bigger, beefier SOLIX C300 DC<!–>, to be the most reliable for powering the dish.
The best system I’ve tested for off-grid internet
If you want to build your own off-grid satellite internet system, test all your gear before you find yourself without a connection. You may have a power bank that works just fine, or you might need to invest in one that suits your needs.
Despite the rough edges, kinks, and speed bumps, this remains the best system I’ve tested for off-grid internet. Even if you don’t have off-grid adventures planned, having the right cable and power bank could allow you to continue accessing the internet in the event of a power cut.
A power bank such as the 24,000mAh Anker 737–> can give you about four hours of internet connectivity before it needs to be recharged. Smaller power banks will give you less runtime, while larger ones or power stations will give you much more.
You decide.
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Source: Robotics - zdnet.com
